Returning the ‘Three Sisters’—Corn, Beans and Squash—to  Native American Farms Nourishes People, Land and Cultures

Returning the ‘Three Sisters’—Corn, Beans and Squash—to Native American Farms Nourishes People, Land and Cultures

Returning the ‘Three Sisters’—Corn, Beans and Squash—to Native American Farms Nourishes People, Land and Cultures

For centuries Native Americans intercropped corn, beans and squash because the plants thrived together. A new initiative is measuring health and social benefits from reuniting the “three sisters.”

Historians know that turkey and corn were part of the first Thanksgiving, when Wampanoag peoples shared a harvest meal with the pilgrims of Plymouth plantation in Massachusetts. And traditional Native American farming practices tell us that squash and beans likely were part of that 1621 dinner too.

For centuries before Europeans reached North America, many Native Americans grew these foods together in one plot, along with the less familiar sunflower. They called the plants sisters to reflect how they thrived when they were cultivated together.

Today three-quarters of Native Americans live off of reservations, mainly in urban areas. And nationwide, many Native American communities lack access to healthy food. As a scholar of Indigenous studies focusing on Native relationships with the land, I began to wonder why Native farming practices had declined and what benefits could emerge from bringing them back.

To answer these questions, I am working with agronomist Marshall McDanielhorticulturalist Ajay Nairnutritionist Donna Winham and Native gardening projects in Iowa, Nebraska, Wisconsin and Minnesota. Our research project, “Reuniting the Three Sisters,” explores what it means to be a responsible caretaker of the land from the perspective of peoples who have been balancing agricultural production with sustainability for hundreds of years.

Abundant Harvests

Historically, Native people throughout the Americas bred indigenous plant varieties specific to the growing conditions of their homelands. They selected seeds for many different traits, such as flavor, texture and color.

Native growers knew that planting corn, beans, squash and sunflowers together produced mutual benefits. Corn stalks created a trellis for beans to climb, and beans’ twining vines secured the corn in high winds. They also certainly observed that corn and bean plants growing together tended to be healthier than when raised separately. Today we know the reason: Bacteria living on bean plant roots pull nitrogen – an essential plant nutrient – from the air and convert it to a form that both beans and corn can use.

Squash plants contributed by shading the ground with their broad leaves, preventing weeds from growing and retaining water in the soil. Heritage squash varieties also had spines that discouraged deer and raccoons from visiting the garden for a snack. And sunflowers planted around the edges of the garden created a natural fence, protecting other plants from wind and animals and attracting pollinators.

Interplanting these agricultural sisters produced bountiful harvests that sustained large Native communities and spurred fruitful trade economies. The first Europeans who reached the Americas were shocked at the abundant food crops they found. My research is exploring how, 200 years ago, Native American agriculturalists around the Great Lakes and along the Missouri and Red rivers fed fur traders with their diverse vegetable products.

Reviving Native Agriculture

Today Native people all over the U.S. are working diligently to reclaim Indigenous varieties of corn, beans, squash, sunflowers and other crops. This effort is important for many reasons.

Improving Native people’s access to healthy, culturally appropriate foods will help lower rates of diabetes and obesity, which affect Native Americans at disproportionately high rates. Sharing traditional knowledge about agriculture is a way for elders to pass cultural information along to younger generations. Indigenous growing techniques also protect the lands that Native nations now inhabit and can potentially benefit the wider ecosystems around them. Photo:  HGTV

But Native communities often lack access to resources such as farming equipment, soil testing, fertilizer and pest prevention techniques. This is what inspired Iowa State University’s Three Sisters Gardening Project. We work collaboratively with Native farmers at Tsyunhehkw, a community agriculture program, and the Ohelaku Corn Growers Co-Op on the Oneida reservation in Wisconsin; the Nebraska Indian College, which serves the Omaha and Santee Sioux in Nebraska; and Dream of Wild Health, a nonprofit organization that works to reconnect the Native American community in Minneapolis-St. Paul, Minnesota, with traditional Native plants and their culinary, medicinal and spiritual uses.

We are growing three sisters research plots at ISU’s Horticulture Farm and in each of these communities. Our project also runs workshops on topics of interests to Native gardeners, encourages local soil health testing and grows rare seeds to rematriate them, or return them to their home communities.

The monocropping industrial agricultural systems that produce much of the U.S. food supply harms the environment, rural communities and human health and safety in many ways. By growing corn, beans and squash in research plots, we are helping to quantify how intercropping benefits both plants and soil.

By documenting limited nutritional offerings at reservation grocery stores, we are demonstrating the need for Indigenous gardens in Native communities. By interviewing Native growers and elders knowledgeable about foodways, we are illuminating how healing Indigenous gardening practices can be for Native communities and people – their bodies, minds and spirits.

Our Native collaborators are benefiting from the project through rematriation of rare seeds grown in ISU plots, workshops on topics they select and the new relationships they are building with Native gardeners across the Midwest. As researchers, we are learning about what it means to work collaboratively and to conduct research that respects protocols our Native collaborators value, such as treating seeds, plants and soil in a culturally appropriate manner. By listening with humility, we are working to build a network where we can all learn from one another.

Christina Gish Hill is an associate professor of anthropology at Iowa State University.

Link to original articlehttps://getpocket.com/explore/item/returning-the-three-sisters-corn-beans-and-squash-to-native-american-farms-nourishes-people-land-and?utm_source=pocket-newtab

Lettuce And Spinach And Beets, Oh My!

Lettuce And Spinach And Beets, Oh My!

Lettuce And Spinach And Beets, Oh My!

It’s somewhat frustrating, that the best time to start our seedlings for a fall harvest is right as we are busy harvesting and preserving the bounty of our summer gardens. Besides extending our opportunity for home grown fresh produce, fall harvested beets, broccoli, and carrots are often both sweeter and milder than spring planted crops.

If your local gardening center carries vegetable starts your planting season can be mid -September. When starting with seeds it’s best to get them started 4 to 6 weeks before they go in the garden around the second week of September.

Photo:  The Guardian.com

 Many of the same vegetables that we plant in the spring can be planted in the fall as well:

Beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, kale, lettuce, peas, spinach, and squash.

Maybe you don’t want to plant a full vegetable garden in the fall, why not try a couple of your favorites. Parsnips, beets, and Swiss chard are on my experimentation list this fall. NMSU has a wonderful circular with information about fall planting. Check it out: https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_circulars/CR457B.pdf.

 

Keep Your Trees Alive During The Drought

Keep Your Trees Alive During The Drought

Keep Your Trees Alive During The Drought

John Thompson,
SEMG 2018, NM Tree Steward, Corrales Tree Committee

 All of NM is in a drought and Sandoval County is in an extreme to exceptional drought condition. Keeping the trees alive in your landscape should be your first priority for watering during the drought. Trees are the most valuable plants in your landscape and add up to 10% of the value of your property plus they provide cooling, wind reduction, shade, and many other environmental benefits. Trees take the longest to replace if killed during a drought. With little rain, your trees are not getting enough moisture to their roots even if you are continuing to water lawns and landscape plants near those trees. The higher temperatures, wind and low humidity during a drought cause trees and shrubs to lose water faster through transpiration. An extended period of drought such as we are currently experiencing causes stress on trees that can kill or weaken them. Trees stressed by drought are more susceptible to pathogens such as fungi and insects. Remember the devastation to pinon trees caused by the pine bark beetle in our last drought.

 What do I need to know about watering during a drought? 

  • What is my soil? How you water depends on what kind of soil you have. In Corrales, there are two predominant kinds of soil. In the foothills the soil is likely to be sandy which means watering needs to be shorter but more frequent. In the greenbelt, soil will have a large amount of clay that holds water requiring longer watering at longer intervals. Loamy soil will hold water better sand and less than clay.
  • What trees do I have? Different trees have different water requirements. You can find out if your trees have low, medium, or high water usage by checking with the NMSU plant database at https://aces.nmsu.edu/pes/lowwaterplants/index.html or the New Mexico Plant Database at http://wuc.ose.state.nm.us/Plants/home.jsp
  • Where do I water my trees? Too many people mistakenly water only at the trunk of a tree. Water is best applied to the feeder roots of the tree that are predominantly under the canopy of the tree but can reach out well beyond the canopy. The best place to water is at the drip line at the outer edge of the canopy.
  • How much do I water my trees? The amount of water needed every month varies by the season, and size and type of tree. The amount of water needed at one watering is what is needed to provide moisture to root depth (1-3 feet). The best way to tell is to check for moisture at about 12 inches deep the day after watering. This can be done with a probe or digging a small hole. Mature producing fruit trees require the most water – up to 800 gallons per month. Low water usage trees can exist on 200 gallons per month. Mature landscape trees can require 400-600 gallons per month during the summer.
  • How often do I water my trees? Frequency of watering varies by season and type of soil. Sandy soil requires less water but more frequent watering. Clay soil retains more water for longer so requires less frequent watering. Newly planted trees and shrubs need the most frequent watering to encourage root growth. Frequency of watering for mature trees may vary from once a week to once a month depending on season and type of tree.
  • What’s the best way to water my trees? Bubblers or emitters on drip systems are the recommended way to water landscape trees and shrubs. When you water lawns and flower gardens with sprinkler systems you are only providing moisture to 4-12 inches deep; whereas, trees and shrubs need moisture to 24-36 inches deep. Emitters or bubblers should be placed in the active root zone just outside the outside edge of the canopy.
    Emitters are rated in gallons per hour so that you can calculate how long to water for a given volume of water. Hand watering is also good. A tree well placed at the drip line (outside edge of canopy) will keep the water above the root zone until it is absorbed into the soil. As a rule of thumb, one inch of water in a tree well that is 10 feet in radius will provide about 200 gallons of water. Wood mulch 2-4 inches deep in the tree well will help retain moisture.
  • What If I Have Conifers? Some conifers e.g. Afghan Pines have low water requirements but still need watering at least once a month to sustain their health. Conifers can be more adaptable to drought conditions once their root systems are established (2-3 years).
  • What If I Have Fruit Trees? Mature fruit trees require minimum amounts of water to produce fruit. In drought conditions, irrigation water may be restricted to once every three weeks. In cases of inadequate irrigation frequency, you may want to consider supplementing irrigation with hand watering or a water truck for larger fields. To retain moisture, trees should be mulched with wood mulch to a depth of 2-4 inches under the canopy.
  • What if it rains? If you receive more than .5 inch of rain you can skip one watering day.
  • What are the signs of drought stress? Conifers will show drought stress in thinning, browning, yellowing, or graying of needles. In the second year of a drought, conifers will produce excess cones. Deciduous trees will show stress through scorched leaves, yellowing of leaves, leaves dropping early, thinning of canopy, and twigs or branches turning brittle or dying.
  • What is the minimum amount of water required for survival in a drought? Trees may not recover if deprived of water for too long a period. Once a month is a rule of thumb for minimum watering frequency for survival during a drought.
  • What if I need more information?

These are resources that provided information for this article and can be accessed online.

 

Southwest Yard & Garden – Is There Anything Grasshoppers Won’t Eat?

Southwest Yard & Garden – Is There Anything Grasshoppers Won’t Eat?

Southwest Yard & Garden – Is There Anything Grasshoppers Won’t Eat?

 

This colorful rainbow grasshopper (Dactylotum bicolor) can be easy to find in desert grassland areas, but is not considered to be an economically important pest in our region. Photo credit Alan Levine (Wikimedia Commons).

 A few people have recently reported what appears to be grasshopper damage on a variety of landscape and garden plants. The telltale signs are 1) ragged, chewed holes in leaves, stems, and fruit, and 2) droppings (aka frass, insect excrement) that look kind of like little black ants without legs. Please note that circular, smooth holes on the edges of leaves are more likely to have been made by leaf-cutter bees, and are a welcome sign in my garden!

“A Manual of the Grasshoppers of New Mexico” is a great NMSU online tool for all things grasshopper that includes ecology, economics, and a history of these interesting pests in New Mexico (https://aces.nmsu.edu/academics/hoppers). Also included are species descriptions, distribution maps, and photos.

For more links to helpful info on pesky and beneficial insects, visit the blog version of this column at https://nmsudesertblooms.blogspot.com/2021/06/hoppers.html.

 The following is a reprinted column by Dr. Curtis Smith from August 24, 2002.

https://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/2002/082402.html

Question: I have always wondered about the grasshoppers that attack my garden most years. Is there anything I can plant that they won’t eat?

Answer: Dr. Carol Sutherland, NMSU Extension Entomologist [retired in 2021], told me that there is a grasshopper to eat any plant you may grow. Not all grasshoppers eat all plants; some are very specific, while others are not picky eaters at all.

She says that there are at least 160 described species in New Mexico (implying that there may be even others yet to be discovered and described). A couple of these prefer to eat weeds and could be considered beneficial. Of the remainder, about 40 species have the potential to become major pests. Some of these prefer grasses, others broadleaf plants, and some both. The extent of the problems we have in our landscapes depends on which species are present (usually more than one), how many of them are present, and what they prefer to eat. I find the following statement from Dr. Sutherland very informative. “Short of rebar, steel, aluminum, adobe, rock, asphalt, and concrete, I can’t think of many substances that will be little damaged consistently by grasshoppers of one kind or another.” So, in one year we may have fewer problems; in another year, we may have more problems.

Dr. Sutherland also explained that the weather affects the numbers of grasshoppers. Drought, especially in the early spring, can greatly reduce the grasshopper population, and thus the damage done by grasshoppers. When we irrigate, we help the grasshoppers avoid the spring drought dilemma. Careful and limited irrigation of landscapes may help, but the river valleys are also escape valves for grasshoppers. If they can make it to the valleys, they will survive and be able to migrate to our gardens.

There are chemicals to use, but their effect is limited by the fact that grasshoppers are migratory. Adult grasshoppers have wings and can fly into our gardens. So, after we kill some, new grasshoppers arrive to continue eating our garden plants. Some people prefer the insect diseases that can be purchased as biological control for grasshoppers. These are effective with some species, but not all species. Some gardeners claim great success using guinea fowl, turkeys, and other birds that eat grasshoppers. Unfortunately, some birds (biological grasshopper control agents) also eat garden plants.

Grasshoppers are a difficult problem for gardeners in our area. For the very adventurous gardeners, Dr. Sutherland states that grasshoppers are edible and highly nutritious. I think that is good information for the guinea fowl (I am not yet ready to eat grasshoppers).

Extra note from Marisa: A friend once made “hopper poppers” by stuffing jalapeños with grasshoppers and cheese before roasting them. If you try them, please post pics on social media and tag me (@NMDesertBlooms).


For more gardening information,
 visit the NMSU Extension Horticulture page at Desert Blooms and the NMSU Horticulture Publications page.  Find your local Cooperative Extension Office at https://aces.nmsu.edu/county/.

Dr. Marisa Y. Thompson, Ph.D., is the Extension Urban Horticulture Specialist in the Department of Extension Plant Sciences and is based at the New Mexico State University Agricultural Science Center at Los Lunas.

Southwest Yard & Garden –  Fun with Nectarine Sap Exudate

Southwest Yard & Garden – Fun with Nectarine Sap Exudate

Southwest Yard & Garden – Fun with Nectarine Sap Exudate

 

Nectarine Sap Exudate from Tiny Holes in Peel Created Bizarre Formation: Osmotic Pressure Inside Nectarines Forced Sap to Ooze Delicately

 Question: What’s the deal with these clear, stiff, noodle-like formations on my nectarines? Have you ever seen anything like this?

–  A. Arber, Albuquerque, NM

    • Figure 1. Sap exudate oozing out of these nectarines was whipped around by the wind before it had a chance to dry and solidify, making extremely rare decorative formations (photo credits A. Arber).

 Answer: Wow, I have never seen anything like this before! I shared your strange photos with several experts from around the state. All agree that the images show extremely rare, spiraling strands of hardened nectarine sap, but there’s no real cause for alarm or recommended action.

Figure 2. Sap exudate along wounded portion of immature nectarine in Albuquerque (photo credit S. Moran

NMSU Bernalillo County Extension Horticulture Agent, Sara Moran, suggested that a species of thrips—or other insects with tiny, rasping,sucking mouthparts—punctured the firm fruit skin, and the internal pressure caused sap to exude. She shared a photo (Fig. 2) of another nectarine in Albuquerque with little short noodles of sap exudate.

Thrips (the correct spelling for both the plural and singular forms) are common, tiny, fringe-winged insects that can be either beneficial when they prey on other pests or harmful when they make mini cat scratch marks on leaves and flowers of various species. They can also be a vector for tomato spotted wilt virus. If you’d like to see live thrips, here’s what you do: walk up to a yucca plant with flowers and shake the flower stalk over a piece of paper or your hand. At first, you might only see other bigger bugs, but look closely and I’ll bet you will see the slender, yellowish thrips running around. They are less than 2 millimeters in length (about 8/100 inch). I did this here at the NMSU Agricultural Science Center in Los Lunas and videoed it (https://nmsudesertblooms.blogspot.com/). Warning: don’t do what I did and get so close to the yucca leaf tips that they poke your finger and make you bleed.

Other possible causes for the nectarine art form were described by Dr. Curtis Smith, my predecessor: “I’m going to guess that we are seeing the combined results of mechanical injury and internal osmotic pressure. Prunus species (i.e., stone fruits, including nectarines, plums, cherries, peaches, and almonds) will especially show jelly-like sap exudation after an injury when the flow of sugary sap meets an obstruction and then finds a hole or crack through which the sap can exude. Hail damage, wind damage, even skin damaged from earlier insect feeding can become rigid and unable to stretch. When water is absorbed, the skin can crack or otherwise form an opening through which the sap can ooze. Wind may be a factor in the fanciful patterns seen in the photographs.”

Hail reports on the Community Collaborative Rain, Hail & Snow Network (CoCoRaHS; https://www.cocorahs.org/ViewData/ListHailReports.aspx) for Bernalillo County highlight two recent hail storms, one on May 21 and one on June 3 of this year.

I Googled intensely for similar images but could not find any resembling this kind of intricate sap pattern. I did learn that “gummosis” is common on tree trunks and can be a sign of a bacterial infection, other disease, or insect wound, and in some plant species is completely normal. California almond growers battle with a pathogenic form that infects the fuzzy fruit called bacterial shot hole.

2021 UPDATE: After writing that column in June 2018, I imagined that the clear, hardened sap might taste like candy. So upon getting back to the client, I asked if he’d try it. He reported back that it had no particular flavor, which actually makes more sense this early in the season before the fruit ripen and get sweet.

I’ve received several photos of hardened gummosis on nectarines and plums in the past month, although none as whimsical as the delicate exudate structures protruding from the nectarines in 2018. Maybe this is the price we pay in years when we don’t lose our fruit crops to late freezes or hail storms.

It’s time to thin fruit on trees that have a heavy load anyways. And purging the gummy ones is a good way to start. I know it’s emotionally hard to do, but getting rid of these uglier fruits allows the sugars they would have gotten to be sent to other fruit. Even under the best circumstances, damaged fruit often have trouble fully ripening. Thinning before other fruit mature helps the survivors get those sugars and other goodies. For more on the importance of fruit thinning, visit Thinning Fruit for Tree Health (Desert Blooms).

For more information on garden insects and diseases, check out these NMSU Cooperative Extension Service publications:

“Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Strategies for Common Insect Pests of Trees in New Mexico” Guide H-174

“Guide to the Biological Control of Some Common Yard and Garden Pest Insects in New Mexico” Circular 607

“Thrips” Guide O-09

“Pocket Guide to the Beneficial Insects of New Mexico”

For more gardening information, visit the NMSU Extension Horticulture page at Desert Blooms and the NMSU Horticulture Publications page.  Find your local Cooperative Extension Office at https://aces.nmsu.edu/county/.

Dr. Marisa Y. Thompson, Ph.D., is the Extension Urban Horticulture Specialist in the Department of Extension Plant Sciences and is based at the New Mexico State University Agricultural Science Center at Los Lunas.

Southwest Yard & Garden –  Heat-Loving Flowers for Color All Summer

Southwest Yard & Garden – Heat-Loving Flowers for Color All Summer

Southwest Yard & Garden – Heat-Loving Flowers for Color All Summer

 

Question: I want to try growing flowers from seed in my front yard. Which do you recommend I start with first?

  • Sylvia S. (age 10), Las Cruces

Answer: I’ve had great luck growing flowers from seed, and I think you will too. I try different combinations each year and usually forget the ones that didn’t ever come up. One tip is to get a mix of wildflower seeds the first year, pay attention to the ones that flower and thrive in your particular environment, and then buy more of those in future years. To save you the trouble, here are a few that have worked well for me: rocket larkspur, cosmos, sunflowers, blue flax, Rocky Mountain beeplant, zinnias, and sacred datura.

The trick is that they do need some moisture to get growing and keep looking good, especially in bad monsoon years (aka mon-later or, worse, mon-never). Spread flower seed around in places that are already getting watered, like within and around vegetable beds, around trees and shrubs, and at the base of vines and ornamental grasses. If you have a soaker hose, you can lay it out (straight, curved, or looped) in the desired spot and plant your seeds along the hose, so you know they’ll benefit.

For a meadowy look, add native grass seed in with the mix and water them with a soaker hose or sprinkler in the evenings about every 3rd or 4th day (check the soil occasionally and adjust if it gets bone dry sooner or if moisture holds longer). My favorite grasses are blue grama, sand lovegrass, and sideoats grama.

The sunflower is another tried and true winner for gardeners—and wildlife too. Don’t get too stressed when you see various bugs all over the lower leaves. Pests that thrive on your sunflowers are great at attracting beneficial insects and birds. Check out my blog for a link to an older column titled, “Sunflowers are Loved by Many” and other resources on attracting beneficial insects.

Sunflowers can grow from seed to full flower in as little as 70 days, depending on the variety. This is both good and bad, as spent sunflowers are a pitiful sight. Beat the “bloom and bust cycle” by staggering your plantings a few weeks apart. Try a handful of seeds once or twice a month through the summer. You’ll be glad you did, and the birds will be too.

In an archived Southwest Yard & Garden column from 2001, Dr. Curtis Smith suggested, “For drier parts of the garden, plant Rocky Mountain zinnia and desert marigold. Cosmos takes a little more water as do the biennial hollyhocks. Sunflowers, rudbeckias (gloriosa daisy and black-eyed Susan), Shasta daisy, and many others do well in New Mexico.”

Desert marigold seedling with tiny, fuzzy, blue-ish leaves at Elephant Butte Lake, February 2020 (left); mature flower stalks in a new development off Hwy-10 in Las Cruces, October 2020 (middle); and a sunny flower head soaking up the sun in Los Lunas, August 2017 (right). Photo credits M. Thompson.

I was excited, but not surprised, to see Dr. Smith recommend my favorite New Mexico wildflower, desert marigold (Baileya multiradiata). In warmer regions, these beauties can grow as perennials, and up north they’re usually annuals that grow from seed each year. As a tiny sprout, the fuzzy leaves have an almost blue hue. Later in the season, the bright yellow flowers can be found on disturbed roadsides, desert trails, lakesides, and, hopefully, in my front yard by the end of this summer.

As well as growing them from seed, annual flowers can also be purchased from local garden centers as small plants and transplanted in your garden or patio containers. I’m always on the lookout for 4- and 6-packs of prairie verbena (Glandularia bipinnatifida, aka Verbena bipinnatifida, fern verbena). If you find them, please let me know where, get a few for yourself, and leave some for me!

For more gardening information, visit the NMSU Extension Horticulture page at Desert Blooms and the Cooperative Extension Publications page.  Find your local Cooperative Extension Office athttps://extension.nmsu.edu/county.html.

Dr. Marisa Y. Thompson, Ph.D., is the Extension Urban Horticulture Specialist in the Department of Extension Plant Sciences and is based at the New Mexico State University Agricultural Science Center at Los Lunas.