Many of us have learned or remembered how to prepare home cooked meals, courtesy of the quarantine. Part of our culinary enjoyment is adding herbs to enhance the dishes. Many herbs are easy to grow both inside and outside. Herbs come as annuals and perennials Here are ten of the easiest herbs to grow at home.

1. BASIL – One of the fastest growing annual herbs. The average plant yields ½ cup of leaves a week. It needs 6-8 hours of sun a day. This herb does well with lots of trimming through the growing season. It is superb to season caprese salads and is a main component in pesto.

2. THYME – Perennial. Quick growing perennial evergreen that grows well in a hot sunny location and tolerates droughts. It can also withstand cold and will winter over. It’s related to Oregano and mint. Often used as an air freshener and incense.

3. BAY LEAF – Shrub, best planted with a lot of compost. Grown outside, often by the front door or a window as a natural air freshener. Crushed leaves release a sweet earthy scent that is believed to relieve headaches. Dried leaves have more flavor than fresh leaves.

4. LEMONGRASS – Perennial grass in Zone 10 -11. In Zones 6-9 it needs to be over wintered inside. Grow in pots to contain spread. West Indian Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) and East Indian Lemongrass (flexuosus) both have a clean citrus flavor and scent. It is not uncommon to accidentally buy Citronella grass (C.nardies or C. winterianis) which have a higher amount of citronella oil in them. These are best used as a natural mosquito repellent.

5. 

   Photo: Pixaby

   OREGANO – Shrub thrives in hot dry climates and takes little water once established. Likes soil with pH between 6.0 and 8.0. Grows best when trimmed back regularly like Basil. Grow pots inside for quick picking and outside as a hardier varietal for year round enjoyment. The dried flowers have stronger flavor than fresh. Ideal seasoning for Italian and Greek cuisines.

6. MINT – “Easiest plant to grow.” Perennial. Plant in pots to control spread by underground roots. Ideal for growing in a rocky dry bed. Can even be grown in water on the kitchen windowsill. Peppermint, spearmint, applemint and chocolate mint all have similar growing habits. Use in ice creams, baking, and teas.

7. SAGE – Perennial evergreen shrub both drought and frost tolerant. Plant in COOL SEASON; early spring or fall. Grow in full sun with well-drained soil. Grow near rosemary, cabbage and carrots. Do not grow near cucumbers. Leaves repel pests and propagate easily. Leaves used to flavor cocktails, pasta and fatty meat dishes. Dried leaves are often bundled and burned in spiritual practices to cleanse the air.

8. ROSEMARY – Perennial ( in zone 7) evergreen shrub. Grow pot on windowsill and trim leaves often to keep compact. In the garden grow in full sun and well-drained soil. Plant near beans, cabbage, carrots and sage. Takes low water. Aromatic herb used to flavor cocktails, meat and as natural air freshener. One of the biggest markets for rosemary is as a preservative in pet foods. It is thought to boost memory.

9. CHIVES – Perennial. Plant in pots to control spread. COOL SEASON and cold tolerant. Chives go dormant in the heat. Harvest stems three or four times a year. Flowers are edible. Some cultures keep chives by the front door to ward off evil.

10. CILANTRO – (Coriander or Mexican Parsley) Annual. This plant offers two herbs in one plant. Cilantro refers to the leaves and
    

    Photo: Chicago Sun Times

    stems. Coriander is the dried seeds. Low water needs. Grow in pots and keep pots in cool spot inside as heat makes the leaves bitter. Dried leaves lose flavor, and it wilts quickly when cut. Some people think Cilantro tastes “soapy.” They have the gene that detects aldehydes, a natural chemical used in soaps and detergents. It’s used in homemade salsa, flavored oils and with seafood.

For information about many other herbs and Spices for the New Mexico home garden, check out this NMSU brochure.

photo: Pixaby

This commentary excerpt is from Ron Krupp, author of “The Woodchuck’s Guide to Gardening,” “The Woodchuck Returns to Gardening” and his forthcoming book, “The Woodchuck’s Guide to Ornamentals & Landscape Plants.”

Native pollinator plants have long been ignored in our landscapes, but that’s changing. They are, by nature, hardier, better adapted to climate change and provide critical habitat for wildlife. Plus, they have attractive flowers, colorful berries and fall foliage.

Douglas Tallamy’s book Bringing Nature Home describes how nonnative plants have low resource value for our native animals and insects and, as well, displace our valuable native flora. He says that we don’t have enough wild places left to allow nonnative plants to thrive.

The growing demand for native plants in ecological landscaping, including pollinator habitat gardens, has led to the selection and breeding of native cultivars. A native cultivar or “nativar” is a cultivated variety of a native plant that has been selected by humans (in nature or through repeated selections in a breeding program), cross-bred, and/or hybridized by botanists and plant breeders seeking desirable characteristics that can be maintained through propagation.

The flowers of Native Cultivars may vary from the native species in size, shape, abundance, color, and bloom time — all attributes known to influence pollinator visitation. In addition to floral traits, native cultivars are sometimes selected for disease resistance, and more predictable sizes and shapes than their wild relatives, making them more desirable landscape plants. But native cultivars can also be less hardy and may prefer different soil moisture and fertility than the species, and most serious of all, may not be as attractive and useful to pollinators.

The use of Native Species once made this land a rich source of life for its Indigenous peoples and, later, for European colonists and their descendants. That is no longer the case. Today, most of the surviving remnants of the native flora that formed them have been invaded by alien plant species.

The transition from alien ornamentals to native species will require a profound change in our perception of the landscaping value of native ornamentals. Even today, the drive to obtain unique species or cultivars is a primary factor governing how we select plants for our landscapes.

Native plants tend to grow vigorously without requiring much fussing. They generally take climatic extremes in stride. Most are major attractions for butterflies, birds, bees and other pollinators because they provide shelter for these beneficial garden visitors. In my community garden, there are many native bumblebees, but their numbers are diminishing due to pesticides, developments, climate change and the loss of open-pollinated true native species.

As development and subsequent habitat destruction accelerate, there are increasing pressures on wildlife populations. As a gardener, you can increase your love of plants and nature by planting native pollinators.

For the first time in history, gardening has taken on a role that transcends the needs of the gardener. They now have become important players in the management of our nation’s wildlife and can make a difference in the future of biodiversity by growing native species plants.

photo: Pixaby

The flowers from the butterfly bush attract hummingbirds because of its high nectar count. Additionally, they are drawn to the long, brightly colored spikes resembling lilacs. Milkweed, an old-fashioned perennial, attracts pollinators like Monarch butterflies, also known as the “milkweed butterfly.”

These perennials invite butterflies and other beneficial pollinators to your garden. They not only look beautiful in the garden, but they also produce nectar-rich blossoms that help sustain winged creatures and produce flowers at different times during the season. In addition to enjoying the colorful blossoms, you’ll experience the satisfaction that comes with supporting pollinators. So why not grow a pollinator garden? Every little bit helps.

In addition to planting perennials to feed pollinators, you can add to the feast by incorporating annuals into beds, borders and patio pots. These plants last only a single season, but many are magnets for winged creatures — from the Monarch butterfly favorite Verbena bonariensis to colorful Zinnias and Lantanas to the Nicotianas and annual Salvias that are beloved by hummingbirds. To see full commentary, check out the original article.

photo: K. Shadock

For years I contemplated, rather than acted, on the idea of planting a garden to attract pollinators. That is until the fall I moved to a house with three well established Trumpet Vines (Campsis radicans) and a large Rosemary bush (Salvia rosmarinus). I trimmed them down to a manageable size and decided to observe them for a year before making any decisions about their future in the yard. The following spring saw the Rosemary blossoms covered with bees and the Trumpet Vine was visited by bees, hummingbirds and butterflies through the long flowering season. Seed pods from the Trumpet Vines blossoms provided winter feed for migratory flocks of finches as well.

The success of these two plants fueled my interest. I learned the importance of providing plants that provided food for both larvae and mature insects and plants that provide shelter. Providing plants for spring, summer and fall feeding as well as a range of colors from purple and pink to orange, yellow and white is also important.

Each year I add a few more annuals and perennials to the garden. I may never have a “cottage garden” in this climate. Still, I am creating a garden that serves the pollinators and delights me. Adding a dish of fresh water, in the shade, for my dogs also pleases
the pollinator insects, hummingbirds  and the local Road Runners.

ANNUALS to attract pollinators:  Pansies, Sunflower (Helianthus sp), Coreopsis, Floss Flower (Ageratum) Cosmos ‘Sensation’, Milkweed (Asclepias scaposa), Pincushion Plant (Scabiosa), Zinnia, Mexican Sunflower (tithonia), Egyptian Star Flower (Pentas), verbena lantana, and penstamon.

HERBS to attract pollinators:  Basil (Ocimum sp). borage (Borago officinalis, oregano (Origanum sp), thyme (Thymus sp), lemon verbena (Aloysia citriodora), lavender (lavandula), parsley (Petroselium crispum), fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), and some mints (Mentha sp).

photo: Pixaby

PERENNIALS to attract pollinators:  Indian Paintbrush, Bee Balm (Monarda), Hollyhocks (Alcea rosea sp) Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa), phlox, Lupine, Allium, and Hyssop (Hyssopus officialis) Mexican Bird of Paradise (Caesalpina gilliesii), Columbine(Aquilegia), Rocky Mountain penstemon.

NMSU has several articles about their own efforts to create pollinator gardens as well as research on the best plants to attract Pollinators. Check them out by clicking on this LINK.

Extension.unh.edu

Editor’s Note:  Rather than rewrite, I am simply sharing the 2018 blog and the link to the very helpful video.

When it comes to pruning, there is nothing better than having a well maintained pair of pruners with a nice sharp blade. Quality pruners should last for years, and replacement parts are available for many brands. It is far easier to prune with sharp tools and it is well worth taking the time to clean and sharpen them. Not only will having sharp pruners reward you with easier cuts, but those cuts will heal better. Dull pruning tools are likely to crush or tear plant tissue, increasing the likelihood of infection from disease organisms. In the video below, Emma Erler, Education Center Coordinator, will show you step by step how to clean and sharpen your pruners.

Supplies

Photo: extension.unh.edu

• Steel wool
• Wrench or multi-purpose tool
• Multi-purpose diamond file(s)
• General purpose oil (3-IN-ONE oil or mineral oil)
• WD-40 for rust removal
• Clean rag

Step by Step Directions

1. If your pruners are easy to disassemble, start there. It is much easier to clean and sharpen a detached blade. Take pictures as you take apart your pruners to help you remember how to put them back together. Skip this step if your pruners do not come apart readily.
2. Next, remove dirt and grime with warm, soapy water and a scrubby sponge.
3. After wiping pruners dry, use coarse steel wool to work off any rust. If pruners are badly rusted apply WD-40 and let soak for 10 minutes. After soaking, remove oil with a clean cloth and use steel wool to get rid of remaining rust.
4. Use a diamond file to sharpen the blade. Draw the file along the cutting edge of the blade, applying medium pressure. Be sure to set the file at the same angle as the factory beveled edge of the blade. Only sharpen in one direction starting at the inside of the blade and working outward.
5. Once you’re satisfied the pruners are sharp, run a file with fine grit over the backside of the blade to remove any burrs.
6. Reassemble your pruners, referring to the pictures you took earlier.
7. Try cutting a piece of paper with the sharpened blade. If it makes a clean cut, the blade is adequately sharp.
8. Finish by oiling your pruners to lubricate the moving parts and prevent the steel from rusting. Wipe off excess oil with a clean rag.
9. Store your pruners in a clean and dry location.​

Video to watch these steps: https://extension.unh.edu/blog/how-clean-and-sharpen-your-pruners